Oh, Rockport

The famous "Motif 1" built in 1848 and rebuilt 3 times.

One of the reasons we do this is to discover harbors, waterfront towns and the people who live and work in them.  They are usually quite different from inland cities.  Cape Ann sits out to sea off the Massachusetts coastline and is often bypassed by many cruisers who come up from southern Massachusetts and duck into the Anisquam River at Gloucester to save the time of rounding Cape Ann.  We have done just that in the past, but not this time and boy were we rewarded.

The tide out in the inner harbor at Rockport.

It was an easy choice as it is only a scant 11 nautical miles from Gloucester ands positioned us nicely to turn sharply north for Maine with nothing but blue and deep water in front of us.  So in we went and picked up a float in the tiny, really tiny, harbor.  The greeting was very warm from all and we soon settled in right in front of the Sandy Bay Yacht Club.  We shared the float with two other boats and made their quick aquaintance.  Bella walked and swam more than she has in two weeks so she was very very happy if not also a tired puppy.   

To sum up Rockport we intended to stay one night, but eventually left after 4 wonderful days.  Rockport is almost unique in that it has no bars or package stores.  To get a glass of wine you must order a meal first.  And even that became a norm only 5 years ago.  The result is a town that markets its famous arts and sailing scene to families instead of party crowds (as we do in Newport).  There must be over 15 art galleries, and many upscale and locally owned shops.  Do not miss the cinnamon donuts at Brothers Brew.  

We walked a lot and took in the quaint neighborhoods.  The local lobster fleet is something to behold.  Out at 5am and in at noon with huge harvests that were unloaded about 200 feet from our rear deck.  Hundreds of pounds per boat every day.

Chamber group in rehearsal

If I did not love Newport so much I would choose Rockport.  It's that good.  They have a Performance Center that is to just die for if you love contemporary architecture ($20mm all private money).   The stage sits in front of a massive glass two-story wall that looks out on Sandy Bay.  We took in the rehearsal of a chamber music ensemble and sat directly over the stage.  Great fun hearing the musicians carefully nudge each other to make changes.

These guys wanted to share their equipment with everyone...very kewl.

Those of you who are within a drive of Rockport....go.  We think you will really enjoy it.

After finally throwing off the lines in Rockport we set our course for the Isle of Shoals where we stayed for two nights at anchor in a small basin.  These islands are small ledge outcroppings where maybe 25 people live year round. They are situated about 10 miles offshore across from Portsmouth, NH. The Star Island Center is here.  It is a large old hotel used by many for religious (primarily Unitarians) retreats and conferences.  Very old (1895), and very spartan.  Lights out at 11 and that sort of thing.  But when was the last time you saw 10 teenagers playing cards and loving it.  We heard the whole place come alive at 9pm with a medley of Beatles songs.  No internet, or phones.  There were probably 200 people here this weekend.  All meals served in a huge old dining room.  One seating, no menu, just family style eating.

The Atlantic from the porch of the main building at Star Island

Nice sail and power rigs came in during our stay, but thus far we have yet to meet a "buddy" boat crew.  

We are a happy crew and really relaxed after Rockport.  Bella has adapted well at this point and, although a high-maintenance crew member, she is a joy.  Actually we are her crew.

Next up is Biddeford Pool before we go into Portland for supplies and fuel.